At the Academy Awards ceremony, Korean singer EJAE appeared on stage wearing a suit adorned with a hibiscus flower ornament — a design element drawn from the official uniforms of Korean Empire officials. The moment sparked widespread discussion about Korean history, national symbols, and the cultural significance of the flower known in Korean as mugunghwa (무궁화).
What Is Mugunghwa?
Mugunghwa (무궁화), often translated as "endless flower," is the national flower of South Korea. Its scientific name is Hibiscus syriacus, and it belongs to the genus Hibiscus — the same family as the tropical hibiscus commonly seen in places like Florida or Malaysia.
However, mugunghwa and tropical hibiscus are distinct plants. Mugunghwa is a widely cultivated deciduous shrub native to East Asia, while the hibiscus more commonly recognized in tropical and subtropical regions refers to ornamental species that thrive in warmer climates. Both share the genus Hibiscus, but their appearance, growing conditions, and cultural contexts differ considerably.
The flower is also sometimes referred to in English as the Rose of Sharon, though this name is applied to several different plants across different regions and traditions, which can cause confusion.
The Korean Empire and Its Uniforms
The Korean Empire (대한제국) existed from 1897 to 1910, when King Gojong declared himself Emperor in an assertion of full sovereignty — particularly in response to growing foreign pressures from China, Japan, and Western powers. It was a short-lived but historically significant period that marked the transition from the Joseon Dynasty toward the era of Japanese colonial rule.
The official uniforms of Korean Empire officials were notably influenced by European military dress — particularly French and Prussian styles — reflecting the broader modernization efforts of the period. Floral motifs were incorporated into the uniform design, and there is ongoing discussion among historians and enthusiasts about whether the primary emblem depicted on these uniforms was the mugunghwa or the plum blossom (매화), which served as the national emblem of the Korean Empire.
| Flower | Association | Visual Characteristic |
|---|---|---|
| Mugunghwa (Hibiscus syriacus) | National flower of Korea (modern) | Funnel-shaped bloom, vine-like stems |
| Plum Blossom (Prunus mume) | National emblem of the Korean Empire | Shallow bowl-shaped bloom, branch structure |
The distinction matters visually: mugunghwa has a characteristic funnel-shaped flower and tends to grow on vining shrubs, whereas plum blossoms have a rounder, shallower shape and grow on branches. Some observers argue the floral motifs on historical Korean Empire uniforms more closely resemble the mugunghwa based on these visual cues, though this remains a point of discussion rather than settled consensus.
Why Is It Called "Syrian Hibiscus"?
The scientific name Hibiscus syriacus — "Syrian hibiscus" — is considered a misnomer by many botanists and historians. The plant is generally regarded as indigenous to East Asia, primarily China and Korea, rather than Syria.
The naming is thought to reflect how European botanists encountered the plant. As it traveled westward along trade routes, it passed through regions including the Levant, and European naturalists who first formally described and named it may have associated it with the region where they encountered it in commerce, rather than its actual origin. This pattern of geographic misnaming appears in a number of plant species — several plants commonly labeled "Japanese" in Western taxonomy were in fact first encountered by European traders or naturalists in Japan, even though they originated in China or elsewhere in East Asia.
Mugunghwa as a National Symbol
The mugunghwa holds deep cultural significance in Korea. Its name, which can be interpreted as "flower of eternity" or "endless flower," is associated with resilience and perseverance — qualities that carry particular resonance given Korea's historical experiences.
An older Chinese name for the Korean peninsula, 槿域 (Geunyeok), translates loosely as "land of hibiscus," referencing the abundance of the plant in the region. However, this designation and its historical implications are a subject of debate, particularly in the context of discussions about cultural heritage and historical influence between China and Korea.
Interestingly, hibiscus is also the national flower of Malaysia, reflecting how widely distributed plants within the Hibiscus genus are across Asia — though the specific species and their cultural meanings differ by country.
EJAE and Golden at the Oscars
EJAE is the singer and one of the primary songwriters of Golden, the song from the animated production Kpop Demon Hunters. At the Academy Awards, Golden won the Oscar for Best Original Song.
It is worth distinguishing this from Grammy categories, as some discussion conflated the two award circuits:
- Golden did not win the Grammy Award for Song of the Year (that award went to Billie Eilish).
- Golden did win the Grammy Award for Best Song Written for Visual Media.
- Golden subsequently won the Academy Award (Oscar) for Best Original Song.
Another performer associated with the production reportedly attended in an outfit inspired by the hanbok, the traditional Korean garment, adding to the evening's visible engagement with Korean cultural aesthetics.
Points of Debate and Historical Context
Several threads of discussion surrounding EJAE's outfit touch on broader, contested historical questions that are worth acknowledging carefully rather than resolving definitively.
The question of Chinese cultural influence on Korean history is one area where careful distinctions are useful. Korea was historically part of the Sinosphere and received significant cultural, linguistic, and institutional influence from China over many centuries. At the same time, Korean culture developed its own distinct traditions, writing system, governance structures, and artistic heritage. Scholars generally caution against either minimizing Chinese influence or using it to subordinate Korean cultural identity — both of which can distort the historical picture.
The term "Korean Empire" itself is sometimes discussed in terms of its accuracy. The imperial designation was formally adopted by Gojong in 1897, though the period was brief and ended with Japanese annexation in 1910. Whether the period constitutes a "great empire" in any conventional sense is a matter of historical perspective rather than established fact.
As for the specific floral motif on EJAE's suit and its direct connection to Korean Empire uniforms, this has been presented as a creative and historically informed fashion choice. The precise historical accuracy of the reference — whether the ornament reflects mugunghwa or another flower — may be less important than the broader cultural statement the outfit was interpreted as making.
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